How are significant wave height, dominant period, average period, and wave steepness calculated? Forget about it - this is swell so small and weak in the very early stages of being generated from strong wind that it can almost never be surfed. The Wave Generation Calculator computes the mean wave parameters defining a sea state generated by a wind blowing with a specified strength and duration over a sea area. HTSGW - Significant wave height (m) DIRPW - Peak wave direction (degrees, meteorological convention) PERPW - Peak wave period (s) More Information. In coastal areas, sea state measurements are needed to support weather, wave climate and ship routing services. Sea in this state will look lumpy and bumpy but you’ll struggle to see individual waves. Dominant wave period is also known as the “peak” period. The wave period is the time for two consecutive crests to pass a fixed point. The significant wave height Hs is the most common and accepted parameter used to define the representative wave height of an irregular sea state. Dominant Wave Period The dominant wave period (in seconds) is a wave period associated with highest energetic waves at a specific point or area in the total wave spectrum and is always either the swell period or the wind-wave period. Almost the totality of wave forecast websites use Hs. It takes the Wind Speed, Duration and Fetch as inputs. However, there is no agreement about the most representative wave period of a sea state. Example I - From Figure 34 we see that when a current of 1.5 meters/second (three knots) is flowing opposite to the sea and swell, the steepness of the waves will be increased by approximately 40% in a swell of period 15 seconds and by approximately 70% in a swell of period 10 seconds. In Figure 1, all three wave types are depicted. Please visit Our FAQ page for more information on data accuracy, available formats, pricing and delivery options. Wave data is essential for the protection of the coastal zone to estimate the eroding forces of wind, waves, and currents. To enhance the safety of crew, vessels, buildings and environment, reliable sea state measurements are required. It determines the Significant Wave Height, Peak Wave Period and the Limiting Factor for Wave Growth. second period pure swell (wave generation region well upstream) -- generally greater than 10 second period A typical sea state will have all different wave types. 1 - 4 Seconds. Our Forecast : Wave Period. The statistical distribution of zero up-crossing wave periods in Gaussian mixed sea-states is examined by using numerically simulated data. Significant wave height, WVHT, is approximately equal to the average of the highest one-third of the waves, as measured from the trough to the crest of the waves. 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